Furancho

 One of the secrets of Galicia is a wonderful invention called the Furancho. 

For a few weeks every summer (I'm not entirely sure how many) the local winemakers invite the public into their homes to sell whatever is left of their wine. While you make yourselves comfy in their house or garden, you can choose from a mini menu - raxo, zorza, tortilla being what we opt for - to help soak up the inordinate amount of vino that you are going to consume.

However, the one rule that all furanchos share is very simple, but has nothing to do with the food. You must drink the wine. That is, after all, why they exist. To show up and ask only for a bottle of water in an establishment made for selling wine is sacrilege.

With this rule in mind, the best customers a furancho owner can hope for are the English. Our fist visit of 2021 was far more subdued than last year as it was a Sunday evening and most of us had to be up for work the next day, but we still managed to get through 6 jugs (four large red for the four who like it and two smaller white for me). Needless to say, despite our incredible restraint, there were still some sore heads on Monday morning.

Raxo con patatas fritas - pork loin.

Zorza con patatas fritas - pork loin but better

Tortilla - Spanish omelette

 Now, although the wine is undoubtedly the star of the show, the food must have it's moment too. Our go-to furancho is owned by Don Pepe and is a favourite of Sam's who kindly introduced us all to his furancho last year (and after the bill we racked up then, I imagine we might be favourites of his too). Just outside Pontevedra, off the main road, he and his family welcome anyone and everyone into their home and serve them all evening. It's such a family affair, that on our first visit we were served by his eight year old granddaughter who definitely earned her tip with the amount of running back and forth she did to keep our wine levels high. 

It was quite a surreal sight to have such a tiny girl who was barely bigger than the jugs she was carrying bringing us wine like it was just another day at the office. The nonchalance of it all just added to the whole experience. 

While his granddaughter keeps the customers happy out front (with her mum to help her out) Don Pepe and his wife are busy in the kitchen making humble, traditional Galician and Spanish dishes to send out to their customers. Without any shadow of a doubt, they are responsible for giving me the best Zorza I have ever eaten.

Despite the love that many people have for furanchos, there are many around who don't agree with the tradition. As they aren't official businesses and don't have to pay any tax, anyone in the restaurant industry are dead set against them as they take away their business. This is why they are only open for a few weeks a year. They are free to do whatever they want, but they must close up again when their season is over. 

Tragic really, but it does mean that the novelty never wears off and that when the season does inevitably come around, the excitement is always there.